Israel
Hi guys, welcome back to the blog. Come on in and get cozy and settle in while I take you on my journey to Israel. I have no idea where to even begin because a lot of things went into the decision making on whether or not I would even go to Israel. I remember receiving an email about a flight deal going to Tel Aviv and another one going to Morocco. I couldn't figure out which one I wanted to do because they were both way high up there on my bucket list of traveling. So, unlike anything else, when I can't make up my mind I ask Karina what she thinks. Well, Karina was no help this time. The traveling wanderlust bug hasn't sunken its teeth in her quite like it has me. I remember asking her which one I should go to and she said, "neither, why would you want to go to Morocco or Israel"? I looked at her as if she had landed in my living room from a galaxy that I wasn't familiar with. Is this girl even apart of my tribe? Who is this imposter standing before me?
I did research, so much research guys. I was looking up everything about Morocco and Israel at the same time and calculting the cost of each. I prayed about it; yes, I pray, and finally I come to the decision that I am going to Israel and Jordan. Yes, I said Jordan. Why Jordan? Well, because Petra is there, duh. Jordan borders Israel and it's not far to reach at all. You can reach by a small flight or a drive. Also, for me, when I travel, I always try and go to as many places as possible thats in the surrounding areas. A rule of thumb for me is that, if I have to take a international flight across the water I am going to do everything and go everywhere I can (reasonably) for the amount of time that I am there. Anytime I go out of the country it is always for an extended period of time because I like to explore and take it all in, but not rush the experience because most of the time these are once and a life time oppertunities.
So here we go. It's happening, the day has arrived and I'm off. My feelings that had been building up for this trip were all over the place. I was so excited and pumped and ready to go, but I have anxiety y'all, not just the ordinary kind, but the chronic kind, the PTSD kind. It can be very crippling at times. The last time I was in the Middle East I was in the Army and we were at war in Iraq. So a lot of residual feelings were stirring around and I couldn't help but think; what if something crazy happens while I am there blah blah blah. Israel is still the Middle East. It's still a region of conflict. I had to stop myself because I know that the way that my mind is set up, I'll freak myself out and miss out on an experience of a lifetime. And besides, YOLO right!
I arrive in Tel Aviv in the wee hours of the morning. After deboarding the flight, everyone goes through what seems like an eternity of check points and security through the airport. I will say this, the security upon arrival and departure is vigorous and intense at Ben Gurion airport in Tel Aviv. It takes all of a little over an hour to pass though all the checkpoints and security. Try to keep your wits about you and just know that they are strictly about safety. The security may seem cold and rude, but its their job to ensure that people coming in, and out, for that matter, are legit and safe.
I fetch a shuttle taxi that takes me to Jerusalem where I will start the first leg of my trip and I get checked into my airbnb and settle in. It isn't long before my day starts. I arrived in the very early hours of the morning, so I literally just had time to have a two hour nap and shower before I went out to start the day. I was quite eager to see what Israel was all about. I started my day in The Old City. The Old City is divided into four parts. The Christian Quarter, The Armenian Quarter, The Jewish Quarter, and The Muslim Quarter. All of these people living and working together side by side everyday in a city with walls thats only .35 square miles. It's amazing.
Arriving at the Old City. Standing right out front of the Jaffa Gate that takes you straight into the Christian Quarter.
The Old City is filled with people of the Jewish, Muslim, and Christian Faith. These people co-exist in this space and they do it with out skipping a beat. There is no hostility, no tension, just life. People going on with with their day, children roaming the narrow ally ways, merchants propped out side of their shops conducting business. I can barely take it all in. I try to imagine what these walls have seen over the course of time and my mind can't grasp that I am in the Old city of Jerusalem. Walking the same streets that Jesus walked.
I start out in the Christian corner and I am overwhelmed with how many people are walking around. Tons of tourist. But also just as many local people are there too. I walk until I hit the Armenian quarter and to my luck, I am just in time to see the Armenian service at the Cathedral of Saint James. Tons of young men, no older than early 20's dawn their black hooded robes and begin the service. It is something that should not be missed. I believe they have services at 3 p.m. every day sharp. I can still hear the gregorian singing in Armenian.
*Disclaimer* I tried to get good shots while inside, but it's a thin line of getting a good shot and being disrespectful. This is still a place of worship.
Cathedral of Saint James
Armenian Quarter
Inside of the Cathedral.
Calling the service to start.
After the service is over I continue walking and I end up in The Jewish Quarter. I could immediately tell that I had hit the Jewish quarter when I stumbled upon a lovely guy who was selling all kinds of beautiful bread. And I would have to say, he was the friendliest encounter I had had all day. He was all smiles and very polite. I asked to take a photo of him and brought some bread as a good gesture and was on my way. I can still feel the warmth of his smile every time I revisit the photo.
A kind man selling his breads.
I stroll the streets of the Old city getting lost in my thoughts of wondering what life is like for the people who call this place home. This place has a lot of hustle and bustle, but it is extraordinary. Perhaps, maybe, one of the only places in the entire world where the main three monotheistic religions live so close together. I can imagine that there is tension at times, but what can you do if you live here inside of these walls. But for right now, everything is flowing and there is peace. I walk slowly taking everything in, not wanting to miss anything. I want to experience this with all of my senses. Taste, touch, hear, see, and smell, everything.
Ancient walls of the Old City.
Kids roam free here in the Old City. They are everywhere. The older little one cut her eyes at me when I gave her a friendly smile. Made me laugh.
A small part of the Western Wall (Wailing Wall). I didn't want to get too close to the main wall because people were praying and reading the Torah. I didn't want to be disrespectful or be too intrusive.
Two men sit in a quiet place to study the Torah in the Jewish Quarter.
After exploring the Jewish Quarter I make my way to the Via Dolorosa. Via Dolorosa means The Way of Suffering. The Via Dolorosa starts at the Lions Gate and Ends at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. The Via Dolorosa was an experience that I can't quite put into words. There were mobs and mobs of people walking the route. The Israeli Defense Force were at what seemed like every corner and turn. Entire church groups carrying an actual wooden cross through the entire road of the Via Dolorosa, all the way to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. It was a lot going on, and to be honest, I couldn't take it in like I wanted to. But now that I have returned home, I am in awe of it all. I can't believe that I was actually there.
The start of the Via Dolorosa
I tried to go into the Prison of Christ but it was closed during the time I was there. It is suppose to be the exact prison that they held Jesus in and gambled with dice for his clothing.
The eight station of the cross.
Walking through the stations through the Via Dolorosa takes a little while. There are shops and merchants of many kind set up along path. No one there tries to hustle you into buying their merchandise. If you go in to look around and not buy anything, they are still very friendly. During my walk I decided to stop into a falafel shop for food. I ordered shawarma, humus, and falafel. The food was prepared fresh to order and it was amazing. This is as authentic as it gets ya'll. The humus was unlike any I had ever had. So good, that I decided to order more and hadn't even finished my meal yet. Once done eating, I guzzled some water and took the last little bit of the walk that led to the Holy Sepulchre.
In Christianity, The Church of the Holy Sepulchre is believed to be the place where Jesus was crucified and buried. Always expect large crowds here. I arrived in the later part of the evening and there were still massive crowds. Luckily, at the time of my arrival, the church clergy were making their rounds to bless different areas of the church, and when they do that, they clear a path to make way for the priest coming around. I was fortunate to get some pretty good views. However, the lines to see the spot where Jesus was crucified and buried were wrapped around the inside of the church and they had roped it off for no more people to enter the line. I did manage to get to follow the locals around with the group of priest that were doing the blessings over the different areas of the church. It was pretty cool experience sitting there listening to the prayers in a language that is not my own.
The Church of the Holy Sepulchre
The priest are blessing the Stone of Anointing, the place where Jesus' body was prepared for burial. This stone usually has crowds of people kneeling down and bent over kissing it and saying prayers over it.
Following the blessings of the different areas.
Calvary.
The Alter of Crucifixion.
One of the lines leading to the burial of Jesus Christ.
By the time I leave the Holy Sepulchre, the sun has set and it is time for me to go back to my airbnb and recharge for the next day of exploring Jerusalem.
Leaving the Holy Sepulchre
A quick story. As I walk to the Lions Gate to exit the Old City, I realize that I am no where near the other gate that I entered the Old City on. I am now on what is considered as the Muslim side of the Old City. I call my airbnb host because she advised me to call her in the event that I couldn't get a taxi to get back to her place. I call her to tell her my location, only for her to tell me that her taxis ( Jewish taxi services) don't come to the Lions gate or to this side of the city. She hangs up rather quickly. More quickly than what I am accustomed to. She was almost borderline rude if I dare say. Then, I suddenly realized where I was. I was not at home. I am in the Middle East, alone. It's getting late and I am all the way on the other side of the Old City. The back end of the city. I tried several times to hail a taxi only for them to tell me no when I tell them address where I am going is to the Jewish part of the city. I didn't panic, but i did start to walk. I had to hike it all the way around back near the Jaffa gate to get a taxi that would take me to my airbnb. That was quite a hump guys. Jerusalem is nothing but step hills every where you turn. By the time I get inside the taxi, I am grateful that this day is almost over. What would a trip to the Old City in Jerusalem be with out this experience. This is what makes the trip memorable. Even if it is very inconvenient. It's a real life taste of life in Jerusalem.
One of the many spice shops in the Muslim Quarter.
Leaving the Old City.
The Muslim Quarter.
The next day I wake up and my feet are swollen from the day before. I will tell you now that Israel is a lot of walking. It is important to have proper shoes. My feet were swollen so bad that I could not put my feet in side of my shoes. I had to wear flip flops. That wasn't my choice, but I had no other option. Swollen feet and all, I decided that I needed to go out and make the best of my time. I only had this day and next to explore Jerusalem before going off to Petra in Jordan.
I decide to go to the Mount of Olives, Dominos Flevit, Church of All Nations, and the Garden of Gethsemane. They are all clustered right there together. You start a the top of the hill at the Mount of Olives, work your way down to Dominos Flevit church, then proceed to The Garden of Gethsemane, and onto the Church of All Nations.
Th climb to the top of the hill where the Mount of Olives is. The climb is very steep. I suggest taking a taxi if you have any problems walking. Coming down, I thought I would fall several times.
Mount of Olives
Dominus Flevit Church. The church was closed off to visitors/tourist on this day but a local invited me in to join in on the Mass. It was such a special moment and time for me.
I did not take photos inside out of respect for the Mass that was in progress.
The garden of Gethsemane. The olive trees are the same tree's form when Jesus went to pray right before he got betrayed by Judas Iscariot. If only these trees could talk. No one is allowed in the Garden. You can look through the gates. Their is one garden keeper.
The Garden of Gethsemane is such a place of peace. I have never felt peace like the peace that I felt at the garden. I didn't want to leave. There was so much on my heart and I just stood there and prayed and I could feel The Lords pretense.
The prayer that Jesus prayed in the Garden right before being led off to his death.
People travel to Israel for many different reasons. The entire time I kept thinking to myself, I feel so disconnected to God in the Holy Land. I feel him strongly everywhere but here, especially when I was in the Old City. I thought that I would feel a certain level of Gods precence there, but I didn't. I was more overwhelmed than anything. But when I came down to the bottom of the hill at the Garden of Gethsemane, it was a quiet place with no other tourist to really speak of. It was there where I felt Gods spirit speaking to my heart tenderly. Sometimes, the world can literally be too loud for me. Sensory overload. In the Old City I had sensory overload and felt a disconnect of some sort. I was taking it all in, but it wouldn't be until I returned home to the sates that I could reflect and really let it sink in, the gravity of everything that I had seen and experienced.
A resting place right outside the Garden of Gethsemane.
The Church of All Nations. Basilica of the Agony.
Built over the rock on which Jesus prayed the night before he was crucified.
Inside the Church of All Nations.
The next day, my final day in Jerusalem, I decide to go on a Dual Narritive tour of Hebron through Abraham Tours. The description of the tour is as follows via of the website: "This tour of Hebron is a unique tour in that it presents two very different narratives of one ancient, contested city. This is the only tour where you’ll have two guides, one Israeli, one Palestinian, each showing a different half and a different perspective of this city. The tour is political but objective, with each participant free to form their own opinions".
I would HIGHLY recommend this tour if you ever come to Israel. Both tour guides give their perspective on how it is to live in the West Bank Palestinian city of Hebron. There are several zones through out Hebron. At each zone their are different check points with Israeli soldiers who check your papers to make sure that you are authorized to enter into any particular zone. You start the day off with your Jewish tour guide taking you through the areas of Hebron where there are Israeli settlers. You will also get to go to the Tomb of Patriarchs. It is a site that is holy to both Israeli's and Muslims. During the second half of the day you meet with your Palestinian guide and cross over into the Palestinian side of Hebron that is controlled by Israeli Defense Force (IDF). You will have lunch with a local Palestinian Family and continue on your tour through out the Palestinian side of Hebron, ending your time back with your Israeli tour guide who will help you get on the bus headed back to Jerusalem.
The Hebron Dual Narrative Tour is an extremely valuable learning experience. It gave me an entirely new perspective on what it's like to live in the city of Hebron, which is a part of the West Bank. Having heard both sides, it's very hard to pick a side. Both sides will pull on your heart strings. I will, however, say that the media will warp the true story. The media will promote fear. Get out and see the world guys. Go to some of these "hot spots" in the world and form an opinion for yourself. Coming to Israel and going on this tour in Hebron was best thing that I could have done while here. It really opens your eyes to a lot.
In Hebron on a rooftop of a Jewish settlers home. The Palestinian flag just on the other side.
A Palestinian little girl entering her home through a window. There is a checkpoint set up by the IDF where her front door is and she and her family are not authorized on that side. They have to enter their home through a window now.
Checkpoint with an IDF soldier patrolling.
Our Israeli tour guide showing us Ancient Dead Sea Scrolls inside of an old Jewish Synagogue.
The streets of Hebron. Desolate. Can you tell which side we're on?
Palestinian children in Hebron.
Our tour guide Lena, standing in front of a group of Palestinians girls coming out of the Muslim side of the Tomb of Patriarchs.
Walking through the markets of Hebron. A merchant selling scarves, rugs, and other little treasures.
Abrahams Tomb inside of the Tomb of the Patriarchs on the Jewish side.
Inside of the Tomb of the Patriarch you will find both Arab art as well as Christian art.
The stained glass right alongside the gold plated imaged of Arab writing at the top.
My time in Jerusalem has come to an end I am off to Tel Aviv. While in Tel Aviv, I go to see more of the the West Bank, The Dead Sea, and explore the streets of Tel Aviv.
I decide to book one last tour through Abraham Tours to see The Best of the West Bank. On this tour they take you to three different cities in Israel; Jericho, Ramallah, and Bethlehem over the span of one day. I felt completely safe during my entire time of the tour with the exception of when we entered Ramallah. Ramallah was a small city with pretty dense crowds of people. I was pretty hyper vigilant the entire time. Lots of buildings with blown out windows up top. There were pictures of martyrs all over the place and all I could think about was whether there were snipers up in those windows with the glass blown out of them. We were an easy target walking through the busy round about. It was an all too familiar vibe in that city that made me a little uncomfortable. A Canadian man that apart of our tour group could sense that I was feeling a little uneasy and admitted that he too wasn't feeling it. Come to find out he served in the Canadian Army. But the tour goes off with out a hitch. We had no problems what so ever. I am glad that I pushed through and experienced all of the West Bank.
A view of the city of Jericho. A land flowing with milk and honey.
PLO leader, Yasser Arafat's tomb in Ramallah
manners of Arafat are hung everywhere in the city of Ramallah
Flea market area in Ramallah. Way to much going on for my blood. Very busy and packed.
Our lunch that was provided by a local Palestinian family right out side of Bethlehem.
Inside of the Church of the Nativity. This is said to be the place where Jesus was born.
This very place is where Jesus is said to have placed in the manger after Mary gave birth to Jesus.
A treat a local sweet shop in Bethlehem. Kanefah is to die for. A rich sweet treat made of sweet cheese, sugar syrup, and pistachios.
A dove carrying an olive branch in his mouth as symbol of peace with a bullet proof vest on with a target on his chest... Welcome to Bethlehem. Welcome to Palestine.
The next few pictures are of the West Bank Israeli Barrier Wall. On one side is Israel, the other is of occupied Palestine.
For the most part, we as foreigners were welcomed heavily in The West Bank. The locals were very friendly and hospitable. Our tour guide was outstanding. He, himself, as a local Palestinian, invited us into his home and fed us lunch and took us around and gave us a first hand encounter on what its like to live in occupied Palestine. It was rich in history and culture. I would like to add that I also, do not live life with rose colored glasses on. I know that Hamas and the PLO are heavy in Palestine, and there are truly deep rooted issues in the land. However, it is hard to take one specific side after all I have I seen during my time thus far is Israel. I do not have a solution to the conflict that plagues this land. Maybe it's not about choosing a side at all. Maybe it's just about being aware and trying to be a good human people. Loving thy neighbor.
Moving right along, and if you are still reading this, God bless your soul. On my very last day in Israel, I decided to go to The Dead Sea. I didn't think that I would I be able to squeeze it in, but I am glad that I did. It was quite a treat indeed. The Dead Sea is the lowest spot on the entire earth sitting 2300 feet below sea level and is home to the most saline waters on earth. It is advised for people not drink the water, get it in your eyes, or splash around in it. I had the pleasure of finding out the hard way by getting into my eyes.
Floating in the Dead Sea effortlessly.
The mud from the Dead Sea has amazing health benefits for the skin. I was standing knee deep in that stuff. Give me all of the mud.
I couldn't have asked for a better experience in Israel. There is so much to do that you would need to spend extensive time to truly get a greater understanding of the land and culture. I barely touched the tip of the iceberg. Israel is a place that I will be exploring again and again. I did not get to go to Jaffa, Haifa, Caesarea, Capernaum, Galilee, Nazareth, or the Negev. All places that are worthy of a return trip to Israel.
